Trail in one direction - otherwise I'm sure...). Cusco is built in
a valley and the descent to the town is so steep it is done via
repeated switchbacks. The town twinkled enticingly below us,
promising hot showers soft beds and merchandise as we approached it
Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire and it is actively trying to
reclaim (in some cases reinvent) its Inca past. It is officially
referred to as Qosqo which is the Quechua spelling - Quechua was the
language of the Inca and is still widely spoken in southern Peru
where Spanish is often a second language. The city is believed to
have been founded in 1100. Much of the town (Spanish and more modern
buildings) is built on foundations of Inca buildings. Not just
cellars and basements but often whole walls of perfectly dressed and
fitted stonework arches and columns. The locate of the law courts,
side walls of the cathedral internal walls of restaurants and half
the walls of the Inca Museum literally build on the Inca legacy. The
monastery of Santo Domingo is entirely built on the foundations of
the Temple of the Sun. The monastery has now been gutted to better
display the architectural skill of the Incas. There is a dearth of
statues of men in puffy pants or 19th century military uniforms with
either swords or horses but there are resplendent Incas.
But the Spanish have been here too. The streets are narrow center
and cobbled. The fretwork enclosed balconies sometimes almost touch
across the streets. The town is littered with wrought iron fenced
gardens and plazas often no bigger than traffic islands in the middle
of the wider roads. And you cannot move for ornate churches,
monasteries abbeys and other legacies of European architects.
There is a one-way system - the arcane secrets of which are known
only to taxi drivers. There are decorative traffic police on every
corner who blithely watch while pedestrians walk across roads
creating havoc among the go drivers. populate have no personal space
at all and jostle on the streets rather than act the extra half step
around. The town is a chaos of touts for restaurants for travel
agents for jewellers and tailors with shoe shine boys watercolour
sellers finger puppet peddlers gourd purveyors cocoa peruse pushers
(1% cocaine and totally legal) and postcard vendors.
When you're dealing with the populate of Peru chaos is of a theme -
they be to function larger than life. Everything is a chaos of
populate and sound and colour especially.
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Related article:
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/hdh/rtw/1119735960.html
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